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Marvel Snap - Cards, Analysis, etc.

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Tide:
I like talking about things that interest me (don't we all?). I've been meaning to write down my thoughts regarding the game for a long time now but wasn't sure where to go with it. Certainly didn't want to hijack MC's thread again. Since the only other space I use that could talk about it is reddit, I'm creating a thread here. I've been playing for a good 10 months now. Game is good, you should try it, etc. I'd go into a bit more details but the point of this thread isn't to advertise the game. Instead, I want to talk about cards, types of plays, analyze/document games that I've had and so on. And hey, if you get into Snap or are already playing it, feel free to use this thread to.

SNAP'S GAMEPLAY -
So before I start into any real card/play analysis, I think it's important to talk about how Snap plays since that will then open up certain concepts without them just appearing with no context. Marvel Snap is in some ways, quite rigid. In every game, there are 3 lanes. Each lane has an effect (a famous Marvel location) and 4 playable spots. Normally, each player has a deck comprised of exactly 12 cards and each game goes on for 6 rounds. Every round, you gain +1 Energy which is basically your Mana/Casting ability and can play cards up to whatever max Energy you have. The goal is to win 2 of the 3 lanes by the end of round 6. To win a lane, you simply have to have more Power in that spot than your opponent. It is important to note that cards will flip over based on PRIORITY (more on this later) and that location effects happen AFTER card effects themselves. These little nuisances give Snap some complexity and the constantly changing lane locations and deck types are what keeps the game fresh.


SNAP CARDS -
Every card has a casting cost (Energy) and a Power value. These two numbers combine together to give it its stat-line. Most cards will also have an ability effect, which can interact with itself, other cards, the play board, and so on. These effects are divided into three major categories:

- On Reveal: The effect happens immediately as soon as the card is flipped
- Ongoing: The effect stays in play as long the card isn't disabled in some way
- Passive: This card has this effect and cannot be interacted with except in rare circumstances.

Abilities then also have sub-categories, which then put them into their own archetype. For example, certain cards when played will Discard a card from your hand. Other cards when played will Destroy a card on the board, etc. An archetype is usually the basis for how a deck is built. Most decks will have a core crux of cards that make up the game plan or primary condition and other cards will be in there to either give a sub-archetype or just function as support.

As of today, here are all the major archetypes that I am aware of:

- Lockjaw Lotto - A deck that specializes in playing cards from the deck instead of in hand.
- Zoo - A deck that focuses on going wide by flooding space with low-cost cards (typically 1 cost) and then buffing them in late rounds.
- Spectrum Destroyer - An deck that primarily uses Ongoing cards, then buffs them with Spectrum if wide, or plays Destroyer if going tall.
- Apoc Discard - Focuses on Discarding the namesake card (Apocalypse) and uses Dracula/Morbius as Anchors.
- Hela Discard - Focuses on Discarding many cards in hand, then plays them all at the end of the game with Hela
- Dino Handsize - Focuses on holding as many cards as possible in hand to buff up the titular card, Devil Dinosaur
- Ronan - Focuses on denying an opponent the ability to play their cards from hand to increase their hand size and thus buffing Ronan the Accuser.
- Darkhawk - Focuses on increasing your opponent's deck, to buff the titular card, Darkhawk
- Movement - Shuffles cards in your lane area after play. Normally, this is prohibited
- Shenault - Named after two key cards: She-Hulk and Infinaut. This deck focuses and utilizes float to create explosive Turn 6-7s
- Generic Destroy - A deck that focuses on destroying cards played to get bigger and bigger values
- Nimrod Destroy - Focuses on buffing the titular card (Nimrod), which you then dupe by destroying it
- Shuri - Uses the titular card to create a giant powered card, which you then clone afterwards.
- Wong Combo - Uses the titular card to basically combo one or two On Reveal effects by having them activate multiple times.
- Negative - Uses Mr. Negative to invert the cost and power values of cards remaining in the deck
- Negative Jane - Same as above, but runs Jane Foster to then fetch all 0-cost cards remaining in deck.
- Control - Reactive deck that focuses on countering your opponent's plays
- Lane Control / Lockdown - Similar to above, but does so by shutting lanes down (effects both players).
- Bounce - A deck that pumps up its cards by replaying them over and over from hand.
- Ramp - A deck that aims to play cards of higher cost earlier then they are intended
- Junk - Similar to lane control but instead of completing shutting a lane down, you slowly deny an opponent play space in their lanes.
- Patriot - A deck that buffs up cards played that are ability-less
- Cerebro - A deck that buffs up cards with all the same power value
- Surfer - A deck that is focused primarily on 3 cost cards
- Agatha - Named after its titular card. Lets the AI play the game for you.
- High Evo (HE) - Named after its titular card. Alters the way certain abilityless cards function
- Thanos - Named after its titular card. Adds 6 Infinity Stone cards into your deck.
- Galactus - Named after its titular card. This card focuses on building tall in one lane and one lane only.

SNAP CONCEPTS AND TERMS -

Some of this should be common terminology in other card games. Others are specific to Snap:

Float - Unused Energy at the end of any turn

Mill - To get rid of an opponent's card, either in hand or deck. Note that Mill isn't particularly strong in Snap right now because of the limited number of ways to do so.

Tech - A card that is used primarily to counter another card or type of card

Anchor/Establisher - A card that is meant to win a lane for you when played.

Enabler - A card whose main purpose is to create plays that are otherwise impossible or to expand a given play window.

Support - A card whose primary worth is its synergy with another card, aimed to aid with the primary win con in the deck.

Curve - Describes your general lines of play and play combinations for a given turn, given the cards available in deck. Cards that cut cost alter your standard curve since it effectively gives you more energy to spend.

Tempo - To play cards close to the "par" stat-line for a given turn in a game. So if you play something smaller, you'll be playing under Tempo. Generally speaking, playing under Tempo is bad because you are effectively being energy inefficient and will lose if you just then play cards that match up to what par should be.

Token - Cards that spawn or create other cards (usually abilityless) when played. These cards can be interacted with.

Play Window - Describes which particular turn is the most effective to play a card. Not all Play Windows are equal. Specifically Turns 3 and 4 are usually the most important. Turns 1 and 5 are usually the least important.

Real Estate Agent - A card that alters a lane's location effect

Series - Describes when in the game the card is introduced. Marvel Snap's cards are not all introduced at once. To prevent a newbie from being trounced by a veteran player, players are slowly introduced to more and more cards through different release Series. So Series 1 describes a card available from the get-go. Series 5 describes an "Ultra-Rare" card, usually those released just recently.

Snap - The game's namesake mechanic. Every game, you "bet" cubes. If you win, you get double your ante. Lose and you lose double your ante. Snapping is to raise essentially. You can only do this once, but it doubles your base Ante of 1 to 2 and hence winnings from 2 to 4. If both players snap, the you can win up to 8 cubes in a single game. 

Cube-Equity - The number of cubes the deck wins compared to it's losses. A deck with good cube equity means it will regularly gain you cubes. Note that gaining cubes isn't the same as winning. Due to Snaps, you can have some games where you win way more cubes then you lose.

Retreat - Forfeit, Conceding, Surrendering a game. You lose cubes equal to your ante basically.

Priority - Determines who reveals their cards first. This is particular important because cards that are unflipped are not considered to be "In Play". Since On Reveal effects happen only once, if you have a particular effect that you absolutely need to hit, you need to make sure you have the right priority, otherwise your play basically whiffs. A good example of this is with Shang Chi. Shang is normally used to counter cards over 9 power since he destroys them. However, his effect only happens when revealed and then is considered to have expired. So if you reveal SECOND in this case, Shang will miss your 9+ power card completely. Priority is determined by who is currently winning the game, so it can be manipulated every round. Experienced players are aware of this and will fight to win OR lose priority depending on the deck.

Reach - Describes a card being able to access lanes that have otherwise been restricted or locked, which would normally prevent further play

Restricted Location - A location that forbids you from being able to directly play cards into it. Sometimes, these are very obvious such as Sanctum Sanatorium which just states "You can't play cards here". Sometimes, they are more nuanced such as Death's Domain, which destroys cards played into the lane. In the latter case for example, you can get around the location effect in several ways.

DEFINING RANKS AND TIERS -
Probably should've outlined this earlier, but I should probably explain how I'm also ranking the cards. Outside of personal experience, a card's "rank" is basically how versatile or useful it is in the grand scheme of the game. Metas will come and go, but the really good cards will maintain relevancy across multiple seasons. It goes without saying, but I also don't look at Cards in a vaccuum. Like Mystique is a great card, but without any other good Ongoing synergies for example, she'd be useless. Ideally, you'd probably be evaluating based on the deck archetype, but there are sites that actively track win rates for that. So, for me, ranking and tiering a card is more about "how useful is this card overall?". Here's how I'd go about reading it:

S Tier - This card is a game defining card in that it alters the way one should go about thinking about the game. They enable many other combos/decks or change up the way one can go about playing a particular deck. These are very rare.
A Tier - A card that is often very relevant for the meta game. Essentially, you play the game and think, "Does my opponent have this?". Often very versatile and can be slot in easily.
B Tier - A strong card that has a few drawbacks, but still played pretty frequently and is quite strong on its own. Most cards are around the B-C tier.
C Tier - Cards that are a bit more niche and weaker individually. Needs the support of other cards to really do well.
D Tier - These are cards that are almost always combo reliant. They are very narrow and are either often dead on draw or just don't do anything most of the time.
F Tier - Pretty much unusable card or cards that have always been bad. Lots of issues and generally, no one plays them as a result.

Tide:
Okay, after all that, let's get into the meat and potatoes of the game: the Cards! How this analysis will work is as follows: I will go over the card, listing its stats, abilities, archetype and uses. Next I'll go over some common plays or combos with the card, then finally, the most subjective part - how good I personally think the card is and tier it. Creating individual posts also lets me update the posting if the card changes at some point and my experience with it develops. So that's the format.

Let's start with one of my favorite cards (100% Tide approved): Scarlet Witch



Cost: 2
Power: 3 (Par)
Ability: On Reveal - Replace this location with a random new one.
Ideal Turn to Play: Varies. Turn 6 if you can create some surprise rug pulls. Otherwise, Turn 2-3 ideally to change a bad location to something more favourable. Good play window overall
Archetype: Tech / Real Estate Agent. No real way to work SWitch as an actual combo card since the location she creates is random.

Uses: Location control is a big deal in Snap as you can probably tell since they will effect every card you are putting into play. However, it is also something that can be easily over valued because even in the situation of a bad location perse, one has to remember that the effect goes both ways. Meaning, if the effect is bad for you, it is quite possible that the effect may also be bad (or even worse) for your opponent. As such Scarlet Witch is often best used on Turn 6 for a surprise play or rug pull to turn a location on its head and win that way. That's not to say you can't play Wanda earlier but generally, those plays aren't winning or as decisive barring something really detrimental for your deck. If you are playing a Destroy shell for example, and Wakanda rolls as one of the lane spots, SWitch can turn that around Turn 2 and you don't have to worry about one of the lanes basically denying your cards' abilities.

A very common use of SWitch in today's landscape is to play her into a vulnerable Limbo location. This effectively cuts the game back to 6 turns instead of 7, so if an opponent needs that turn to float or set up their combo, you effectively get to catch them with their pants down. SWitch can also be used on certain Restrictive locations, last minute to turn it around and win it for you if an opponent lacks the necessary reach and tools. For example, dropping Wanda into Death's Domain lets you chump that location for 3 power if the opponent lacks reach since effects on cards take place BEFORE the location effect.

Compared to other real estate agents, Scarlet Witch is the most cost efficient. The other real estate agents are either 3 cost, cannot change the locations only their positions, or take place on Turn 5. This cost efficiency means she's also the only real realistic real estate agent that can be used on Turn 6. In return though, SWitch has no Surfer synergy and because her effect is random, you can just as easily screw yourself over when played versus directly benefiting you - hence also why Turn 6 is ideal. If you are playing SWitch earlier, you are gambling somewhat that whatever location she does change the lane is at least neutral to the deck you are playing. As such, I wouldn't recommend actually playing her on tempo. Due to her random effect though, she CAN also be used as a last ditch hail mary - a tactic most cards in the game lack - to the cheers of Tides everywhere.

Common Combos: Unlike other cards, because SWitch's effect deals with locations, her best combos actually interact with the lanes versus interacting with other cards. Playing her on a restricted location last minute has been mentioned, but you can also play SWitch on +/- locations on power to normalize it if you are playing a Cerebro deck. She can also work on overcentralizing locations such as the Nexus by making your opponent over invest into a lane that you can then ditch for a measly 2 energy. A final 100% meme use for SWitch is to drop her in a Wong combo so you can roll for Worldship to get the Galactus effect and basically destroy the other locations played. The last one really isn't a common combo, but you can see why I approve of this card.

Rank/Tier: C tier. SWitch is a card that doesn't have real combos into it, but being a 2 energy potential match winning surprise counts for something. Her effect is fairly niche since you also cannot control what Wanda changes the lane to, but decks that run her don't really care about that inconsistency. Still, this means it restricts her primarily to control type decks to deny an opponent a beneficial or potential match winning lane.

Most Used Decks:
- Sera Control
- Cerebro 3

Tide:
Time for a card which I've already mentioned by name a few times:

Shang-Chi


Cost: 4
Power: 3 (Below Par by 3)
Ability: On Reveal - Destroy all of the opponent's cards in this lane whose power is 9 or greater
Ideal Turn to Play: Almost always turn 6. Theoretically, Shang is actually a 4-12+ IF his effect triggers. As the higher cost cards often have larger values, you are most likely to get to this value if you save Shang for the last turn. The issue if of course, he's bad for tempo. So if you whiff with Shang, you're almost certainly going to lose since playing 4 Energy for close to 0 benefit is terrible for your board state. There are some instances where playing Shang early is worthwhile, but those are much rarer. In addition of making it easier for Shang to trigger, saving him for Turn 6 also gives you the greatest surprise factor against an opponent - they have to guess on Turn 5s and 6s whether or not you HAVE Shang, which can lead to sub-optimal plays if they guess incorrectly.
Archetype: Tech. 100% Pure tech. Again, playing Shang for Tempo is a bad idea.

Uses: Where to even begin? Shang is like the premier example of an always relevant meta tech card because he checks you for playing too greedy. Cards that self-buff or combo cards that buff themselves to a million points and over all basically eat it to him. If you're in a position where you have 9+ power card that's unprotected going into Turn 6, the very first question you should ask yourself is: Does my opponent have Shang? The only two things holding him back are his awkward cost and bad power ratio on whiff.

4 costs in Snap have a very awkward relation on Round 6. On one hand, sometimes they can be immensely powerful like Shang because their effect can just completely shut someone down. On the other hand, without any discounts, only one 4 cost can be played on Turn 6. And if an opponent is playing a 6 cost while you are playing a 4 cost, chances are, you are getting out stated. You have to make sure you're single 4 cost play makes up for that Turn 6 tempo loss and then some because you're effectively losing 2 Energy over your opponent. To Shang's credit (and all other 4 costs), there is a card that can be used to reduce 4 costs down to 3 - Zabu. If you run any other 4 cost that may be important to play on 6 or is much more effective having an expanded turn window, Zabu almost becomes a staple as well for a deck slot. A common example is running Shang + Enchantress. Both tech cards that are 4 cost, but if their effect is relevant for the match, are basically tide turners and will win you the game.

To get the best use of Shang, you are best off revealing 2nd. Not only does this give you extra targets to hit, but it also means Shang's check doesn't happen until after an opponent's abilities have resolved for the most part. So if a card was sitting at 7 Power for example, and then an opponent plays something that gives it a +2 buff, playing first means Shang whiffs while playing second means you will hit and destroy it. The net power difference from a whiffed Shang and a Shang that hits is massive as you can see. If an opponent is playing a primarily reactive deck like a Control deck, they will basically be trying to lose priority the entire game. Certain other decks will carry Shang just as a check - mostly those that have a power ceiling, to ensure that you can't out-stat them. The greater the power creep, the more relevant Shang becomes.

Counter plays exist against Shang but can be quite awkward since he checks power and not an effect. You could Cosmo/Armor a lane to stop Shang 100% but that also comes with the caveat those effects apply to you too and can definitely backfire if you aren't careful. The easier way to get around Shang is to throw priority so your opponent has to reveal 1st. Ghost exists if you are bad at it but costs a card slot. Another cheeky example is using Invisible Woman and hiding your 9+ power cards behind her. Since Invisible Woman makes cards played after her in her lane "Not in Play", Shang will reveal first, then the game checks all the cards after Invisible Woman afterwards when the game ends. Of course, an opponent who has their own Invisible Woman or Ghost can offset this but both cards aren't cards you can just stuff into every deck. Staying behind 9 Power is also another way to skip the Shang check. Cards like Devil Dinosaur, where the power can fluctuate turn to turn can be manipulated in this way to dodge Shang.

Common Combos: Shang into Absorbing Man lets you basically play him in 2 lanes. While difficult to set up as it is a 3 card combo requiring Zabu, it's often game winning when you get it since kneecapping your opponent to 8 Power cards at most can be pretty restrictive. Similarly, Shang into Zola is a triple Shang that is absolutely disgusting but is also a 3-card combo minimum that usually ends up being 4 cards as it requires Mr. Negative to set up. Invisible Woman and then hiding a Shang behind it ensures you throw priority to make your Shang go off after the game ends. If an opponent doesn't have their own Invisible Woman, this basically guarantees your Shang will go 2nd and all the benefits that come with that. If you have Knull played previously, Shang into Knull creates an even bigger power difference because the destroyed card's power then gets added to your Knull.

Rank/Tier: A tier. Unlike SWitch, Shang is a card that will almost always be relevant. You see all those screenshots of people getting up to 1 billion power or whatever? If the losing player had kung-fu Asian Man and played him, those screenshots will never happen. He's bad when his effect doesn't apply but most decks will either try to cheat out more power or play cards that grow to enormous numbers. Shang basically says "lol get rekt" to all of them. Card destruction is generally very powerful - especially of your opponent's board. Maybe if Cerebro and Nimrod were more commonplace for example, we'd start seeing less of him.

Most Used Decks:
- Sera Control
- Cerebro 3
- Generic Destroy
- Negative
- Galactus

Tide:
Let's look at a well known Marvel figure next, who's also pretty damn good:

Professor X


Cost: 5
Power: 3 (Below Par by 6)
Ability: Ongoing - Locks this lane from further play (Cards in this lane cannot no longer be interacted with except for their power).
Ideal Turn to Play: Turn 5. Professor X is the first card I'm covering where his play window is extremely tight. He's strictly a Turn 5 play because his effect on Turn 6 is miniscule, whereas on Turn 5, he pretty much decides a lane. There are ways to interact with the power value thereafter, so it's not open and shut but traditional ways of moving cards or playing into the location no longer becomes possible. He's also the first card that we're looking at where, if ramped out, can become match deciding. Most players might not look for a possible Turn 4 Prof X or earlier if they have not seen that possibility before.
Archetype: Lane Lockdown. Pretty much the textbook definition of a lane control or Lock down card (even says it in his name!)

Uses: Unlike Shang and SWitch, Professor X is a card that can do several things, although his primary use is to lock down play space for you and your opponent. Playing Professor X is tricky. Since his stat line is so far BELOW par, playing him in the wrong lane can easily backfire on you by locking you out of a further chance to win the particular lane you've played him in. Therefore, you need to have a good idea of the possible plays from an opponent to reduce this risk. The other alternative is to make sure you play tall earlier so when Charles parachutes into the lane, the tempo loss doesn't kill you. Of course, dumping so many resources into one lane isn't efficient so it is best to do with just a few cards as you expand plays to a second lane.

Charles' effect is pretty unique because while other cards can stop you from playing at a particular spot, you may still be able to Move cards there. In this case, Professor X completely shuts the lane down, meaning can also no longer move in and out of the lane barring a certain exception. As such, you can also use him to tech against certain opponents who plan to dupe / destroy cards. Playing Professor X essentially shuts down Move decks and Nimrod for example, because they need that play space in order to generate power. At 5 Energy, that's a very steep tech card, but the ffect is so powerful, it is pretty much match ending when it comes out. For this reason, you will want to Snap before playing Charles against these decks.

Once Professor X is played on a lane, the only other ways to interact with it are by changing the power of the cards there. Cards such as Nova exploding or those that have reach effects like Mr. Fantastic, can further add power to the locked lane. Keeping this in mind is important because you *may* be able to steal the lane back on Turn 6 if you have previous plays set up to let you interact with the locked lane.

Common Combos: Because his effect prevents anything else from happening to the lane, Attuma - Prof X lets you put down a good 13 points before locking it. Raw Attuma is pretty risky but Prof X right after stops any chance of an opponent from launching a goblin or other junk at you and destroying your Attuma. Similarly, you can use Charles' lock down effect to save your own cards. This is one of the ways Spectrum Destroyer work as Destroyer's Reveal effect doesn't interact with any of the cards played with Professor X's lane due to his ability. Daredevil is Professor X's best friend as he will let you see your opponent's Turn 5 play, then counter react appropriately with what lane to lock down, if any. In these case, this combo can be match decisive since the game is 1 round away from ending. Ramping out Professor X can be very effective since as noted, a Turn 4 Prof X is not something most players expect. For this reason, Psylocke and Wave can also be good 2 card combos to play with Charles.

Rank/Tier: B tier. There is always some inherent risk to playing Professor X without any tools. A bad guess means you lose the lane and with only 1 turn left normally, there's not enough time to really course correct. However, his effect is just so powerful that even if he's not doing his primary job, you may still end up screwing an opponent over by locking him out of a way to interact with the cards in the lane.  Having the option to ramp or mitigate the risk with cards like Psylocke and Daredevil ensures he's a strong addition to the archetypes he plays well in.

Most Used Decks:
- Lane Lockdown / Control
- Spectrum Destroyer
- Thanos
- HighEvo

Tide:
Kitty Pryde



Cost: 1
Power: 2 (Par)
Ability: Passive - This card returns to your hand at the start of the next turn. When it returns to your hand, +1 power.
Ideal Turn to Play: Always Turn 1. Kitty is a "pump" or self-buffing card. She starts at par value but for everyturn you can float energy for her, she'll grow by 1. Assuming you keep doing this every turn in a 6 Round game, she becomes 1-7, which is pretty good. Of course, in truth, you are spending 6 Energy to get her there and a 6-7 isn't that impressive, but Kitty has other uses that make this "stat-line" worthwhile.
Archetype: Bounce. Should be pretty obvious.

Uses: Good low energy cost cards in Snap are immensely valuable. Most of them are locked behind particular archetypes or are in actuality, not that good. Kitty falls into the first category, but her ability is still good enough to let her play some utility roles making her a premier 1-cost card. She used to be even better before patches - +2 power per play but she loses her 2-base power. This in turn meant it was possible for her to grow to be a 1-12 (or 6-12 if you count the energy to get her there), which gave her a much higher ceiling.

What makes Kitty good is that she dodges some of the common trappings of a 1-cost card. Unlike Nebula or Sunspot, she pretty elusive for Killmonger to destroy her. Since she bounces back and forth into your hand, the opponent has to predict that Kitty is coming that particular turn and play Killmonger to counter. Another factor is that since she jumps back into your hand, you end up losing whatever power she gave you until Round 6 - meaning you are possibly losing priority and thus avoiding Killmonger and Shadow King that way. Her repeated "pay-for-play and buff" means you can also use her to trigger Round effects constantly - which can let you get around certain disruption cards or locations.  Other 1-costs cannot do this. Sure, you ARE paying 1 energy a turn for it, but you're also self-buffing so it's not a complete waste. And presumably, that 1 energy might be unused float otherwise. Because her ability is passive, Kitty also can't be stopped by common tech cards such as Cosmo, Enchantress and she'll usually flutter below Shang's check. This means stopping Kitty usually requires more unorthodox cards or abilities.

Kitty's obvious synergy is in bounce decks, where she can then be played to not only rapidly buff herself, but also be used to continuously buff cards like Angela, Collector and Bishop. However, she also has some hidden synergies with cards like Silk, letting you make her jump around constantly or with Moon Girl to double the number of Kittys you have in hand. Beast is her best friend since he can reduce her cost to 0, and let you buff her for free. And in the older versions, she used to work better with Shuri to bypass Shuri's limitation of needing to be played in the same lane. You can still do it nowadays, but her pump value is cut in half, so this is less effective and you will need some other support cards if you're intending to use her this way..

Her primary weakness is also one of her strengths. Because she will always return to your hand if possible, she's bad if you intend to use her in lock out type locations before Turn 6. Certain locations which close off after a certain round effectively means Kitty cannot anchor that lane for you since she'll jump back into your hand unless you are at the hand limit. Storm in particular basically shuts you down because not only do you now have less play space, but you can't use Kitty to hold that lane. Also, any card or effect that increases your cost by even 1 is a death sentence. No one is going to repeatedly bounce Kitty if she was even 2-cost, so Ice Man is one of your biggest fears.

In today's landscape, Kitty isn't as prevalent as she was when she was introduced, but that's also because Bounce has taken a big nerf stick after it enjoyed roughly 3 months of dominance. Still, if you are looking at a 1 cost to round out your deck, Kitty's a pretty great option alongside Nebula or Sunspot.

Common Combos: Kitty's best friends are Angela and Beast. Beast turns Kitty into a 0-X, where X is the final pump value. 0 Cost cards are even more valuable for their flexibility, let alone one that can still pump itself thereafter. Angela loves Kitty because she doesn't take up any playspace at the end of a turn as she'll bounce back to hand. This lets Angela get up to at least 8+ Power assuming you are always playing Kitty in her lane, which makes her quite good for a 2-cost. Armor also works to cover Kitty if you are afraid of an Elektra snipe or predicted Killmonger. Bishop gets a lot of value from any deck that has repeated cards to play so Kitty works very well with him too. Lastly, Collector's passive triggers every-time Kitty returns to hand. Having a combination of these cards lets you grow your board status pretty effectively for just 1 Energy a turn.

Rank/Tier: A tier. Kitty is pretty much an archetype defining card. Before she existed, Bounce was basically missing a couple of tools to really explode. Sure, you had like Falcon - Iron Fist - Human Torch but those were usually way more memey and required more set up and luck. Once Kitty was introduced, she basically became the face of Bounce decks. She's not so niche to be restricted to just Bounce, but that's certainly what most people think of when they see her being played, which should tell you something. Overall, just a good and versatile 1-cost card.

Most Used Decks:
- Bounce
- Zoo
- Shenault
- Sera Control

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